Watches and Wonders 2024: A Closer Look at Vacheron Constantin’s Novelties
After focusing on Retrograde displays during Watches and Wonders (W&W) 2023, Vacheron Constantin is now presenting its W&W 2024 novelties as part of a diverse catalogue. This year, the brand is pushing the envelope with a concept watch – Égérie, The Pleats of Time Watch – created in collaboration with designer Yiqing Yin and master perfumer Dominique Ropion. The concept timepiece has a dedicated fragrance, encapsulated in the strap and randomly released in step with wrist movements. Apart from this, Grand Lady Kalla, a jewellery watch to be worn in multiple ways, also makes a comeback to Vacheron Constantin’s lineup.
GMT India takes a closer look at the novelties in the Patrimony, Overseas, and Traditionelle collections as well.
Vacheron Constantin Égérie, The Pleats of Time and Égérie Moon Phase Watch
In this line, Vacheron Constantin has released two timepieces in collaboration with designer Yiqing Yin. The Pleats of Time is a one-of-a-kind concept watch that combines Haute Horlogerie, Haute Couture and Haute Parfumerie. The Égérie Moon Phase watch is an exclusive 100-piece limited edition bearing Yiqing Yin’s name engraved on the caseback.
The Égérie, The Pleats of Time watch features a diamond-set pink gold case, which houses a lilac mother-of-pearl dial, adorned with a “pleats” pattern. The watch is paired with an original Haute Couture strap, woven with exquisite embroidery and mother-of-pearl shards. Yiqing Yin called on master perfumer Dominique Ropion to create a dedicated fragrance, contained in the strap and randomly released in step with wrist movements. The dial has been freed from hour markers, extending an invitation to experience time in an intuitive and emotional way. The “pleats” pattern unfolds in two stages across its entire surface: in the centre, encircled by fine gold “pearls”, as well as around the edge, extending the folds and hollows.
The Égérie Moon Phase also has a lilac mother-of-pearl dial adorned with a “pleats” pattern, in keeping with Yiqing Yin’s creative universe. The soft lilac colour was a conscious choice, which Yiqing Yin had described as “a feminine, evanescent shade like a delicate embodiment of a daydream”. A row of diamonds decorates the complication, enhanced by dainty hours, minutes and seconds hands. Three interchangeable straps in lilac, powder pink, and night blue, developed by the couturier, are also on offer.
Vacheron Constantin Grand Lady Kalla
Echoing the Maison’s storied legacy of jewellery and pendant watches, the Grand Lady Kalla makes a comeback. The piece – a testament to the meticulous savoir faire – is bedecked with 57 faceted emerald-cut diamonds; diamonds, Akoya and onyx pearls are also spotted on the pendant. All in all, the high jewellery timepiece is composed of 268 diamonds totalling more than 46 carats. The versatility of the timepiece makes it stand out as it can be worn in four different ways – as a bracelet and necklace without the watch face, and as a wrist watch or a sautoir with the watch face.
Going Green: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection
While the iconic Overseas collection stays true to its roots, the brand has introduced it with intense green dials, each featuring a sunburst satin-finished centre and velvet-finished flange for the first time. The new green dials grace the Overseas Chronograph, the Overseas DualTime, and the Overseas Date in 41 mm and 35 mm.
The timeless pink gold case shines against a captivating green hue. The watches come with three interchangeable straps: the original pink gold bracelet with a quick-release folding clasp along with green calfskin and green rubber straps. The watches offer a water resistance of up to 150 metres. Each of these new timepieces is equipped with self-winding calibres featuring meticulous finishing. The Overseas Chronograph runs on Calibre 5200, the Overseas DualTime on Calibre 5110 DT, the Overseas Self Winding 41 mm on Calibre 5100 and the Overseas Self Winding 35 mm on Calibre 1088/1.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium
At the ongoing W&W 2024, Vacheron Constantin has introduced a new version of the Overseas Tourbillon model, entirely made of titanium. The watch features the collection's signature blue dial. The self-winding tourbillon model is powered by the ultra-thin Manufacture Calibre 2160. The watch is delivered with three interchangeable bracelets/straps: titanium, calfskin leather, and rubber.
Equipped with a tourbillon regulator visible at 6 o'clock, the movement features an 22 ct gold peripheral oscillating weight winding the calibre and ensuring a comfortable over three-day power reserve.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
The Patrimony collection made its debut in 2004 and this year, it celebrates 20 years of sophisticated style. The three new models – retaining the elegant aesthetic codes of the original collection – feature a new sunburst antique silver-toned dial, new strap colours, a customisable caseback, and a diameter trimmed to 39 mm for the manual-winding models.
The two 39 mm manual-winding models come in white gold or pink gold with two new strap colours: azure blue and olive green. At the heart of the case beats the manual-winding Calibre 1440. Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, this movement is just 2.6 mm thick and endowed with a 42-hour power reserve.
The 42.5 mm Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date model in white gold features an old-silver-toned dial and an olive-green alligator strap.
The sunburst old-silver-toned shade creates a subtle contrast with the pink gold of the hands and the hour markers. The model is driven by in-house self-winding Calibre 2460 R31L, powering two complications. The moon phase aperture is at 6 o'clock while the retrograde date display is placed on the upper part of the dial.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph — Collection Excellence Platine
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph is a true collector’s piece featuring a platinum case, crown, dial, buckle, and strap stitching. The 50-piece limited edition has joined the Maison’s Collection Excellence Platine lineup. Combining two noble complications – a tourbillon and a chronograph – this model pays tribute to grand watchmaking traditions. This watch is powered by Calibre 3200. Developed to mark the brand's 260th anniversary, this movement incorporates a monopusher chronograph with a tourbillon regulator. The perfectly legible dial features a large tourbillon aperture at 12 o'clock, while the 45-minute chronograph counter is positioned at 3 o'clock and the power-reserve indicator at 6 o'clock.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers - The Berkley Grand Complication
The brand also presented the world’s most complicated watch, comprising a whopping 2,877 components and 63 horological complications. It surpassed the record previously held by the Maison with Reference 57260. The Les Cabinotiers – The Berkley Grand Complication took 11 years to develop, including a year entirely devoted to assembly. A world-first, it is also distinguished by the fact that it features a genuine Chinese perpetual calendar. Characterised by a complex and irregular cycle, thanks to the mechanical workings of in-house Calibre 3752 (programmed until 2200), the lunisolar calendar is a reminder of the Maison’s horological genius.
The double-sided movement features 245 jewels, 31 hands and 9 discs, and integrates a host of complications covering the entire horological spectrum: a split-seconds chronograph; an accurate moonphase function requiring no correction in 1,027 years; the Gregorian perpetual calendar; Chinese perpetual calendar; retrograde small seconds; triple-axis tourbillon; the sky chart that rotates according to the sidereal day (23h, 56m, 4.09s), and the day/night indicator of the second time zone, which is engraved with an azimuthal polar projection providing an original geographical perspective.
Image credits: Vacheron Constantin