Introducing the Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon, Created in Collaboration with Master Watchmaker Jean-François Mojon

When historic Swiss watchmaking brand Favre Leuba — that dates back to 1737 — made a comeback in 2024, it took the industry by storm. The clearly profiled collection structured around three pillars (Chief, Sea Sky, Deep Blue) continues to be dearly appreciated by horophiles. This year, Favre Leuba has unveiled a stunning new timepiece that joins the Chief collection and perfectly embodies the pioneering spirit of the brand: the Chief Tourbillon. The first ever tourbillon timepiece since the brand’s founding in 1737, the clock was developed in close collaboration with master watchmaker Jean-François Mojon, and features a striking three-dimensional dial that sports the brand’s Favre Leuba’s embossed Hourglass emblem.

A Dial Like No Other

Offered in a limited edition of 25 pieces, the Chief Tourbillon was developed along with Mojon, one of today’s most inventive movement makers whose expertise has shaped the creations of brands such as MB&F, Czapek, and Hermès. Cased in stainless steel and sized at 41 mm, the watch stands out for its unique embossed dial. Centred on the Hourglass emblem that forms the heart of Favre Leuba’s identity, the dial reveals an intriguing, three-dimensional design that flaunts a seemingly spontaneous yet harmonious arrangement of the legendary emblem. Brought to life by master craftspeople with the aid of specially engineered tools, the dial has undergone multiple stages of precision stamping to achieve its distinctive layered depth and complexity. The pattern of triangles is spread across three distinct tiers, from the surface down to 0.30 mm below. A closer gaze allows one to appreciate the detailing even more. Each motif is delicately crafted on three distinct levels, where fine sunburst triangles rise elegantly above the dial, while matte triangles rest below. The space between these two elements forms the foundation of the dial, creating a captivating interplay of light and texture.

Excellence in Engineering

The Chief Tourbillon is powered by the FL T01 movement (base: Chronode C502), an established calibre that Jean-François Mojon reworked from the ground up for Favre Leuba. The opposing sections of the tourbillon cage’s upper bridge evoke an hourglass, hinting at the brand’s emblem. This bridge also supports the rehaut of the small seconds dial, and at its centre remains the flame-blued small seconds – three functions merged into a component that is as complex to precision-engineering as it is to finish. Measuring 14.85 mm in diameter, the tourbillon cage offers an excellent view of the movement. While the tourbillon bridge offers a horizontally brushed finish on its top surface, the outer edge that carries the seconds track features a circular-grain finish. The caseback also sports a spiral-relief hourglass set against a laser-engraved background that creates a satin-like texture.

The integrated brushed and polished steel bracelet features double-link construction and folding clasp. It is supplied with an additional black rubber strap with a Favre Leuba pin buckle.

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