Gucci High Watchmaking Sets a Milestone with the New 25H Minute Repeater
Last year, Gucci made a foray into High Watchmaking with five signature collections that featured complications such as a tourbillon, a moon phase, and a perpetual calendar. This year, Gucci High Watchmaking is pushing the boundaries further with a horological milestone: an exclusive Gucci-signed minute repeater, one of the most coveted complications in watchmaking. Also joining the line-up is the Gucci Interlocking, a new collection that combines two emblematic complications – the flying tourbillon and the jumping hours. Rounding off the offerings are the Gucci 25H Skeleton Tourbillon and G-Timeless Planetarium variants.
GMT India takes a closer look at the latest launches.
Gucci 25H Minute Repeater
The minute repeater is a true celebration of sound that leverages cymatics. The movement of this extraordinary carillon minute repeater features three small hammers that strike different harmonious notes for hours, quarter hours, and minutes. This produces an intense sound that parallels a musical instrument. Each handcrafted minute repeater comes with its own subtle and unique chime and tone, making each watch unique. Furthermore, the on-demand minute repeater is activated not by a conventional pusher but by an innovative rotating bezel – infusing this masterpiece of precision engineering with unexpected flair and style.
Even with the complex movement featuring 340 hand-assembled components, the watch does not compromise on the signature streamlined profile of the Gucci 25H; it is presented in an ultra-thin 9.9 mm tri-layer case. A concealed octagonal crown at 3 o’clock exudes the sleek, urban aesthetic of this iconic collection. The intricate skeletonised dial is a result of a pattern created by the art of cymatics, where sound waves are used to generate matter and form. Sounds inspired by the minute repeater’s striking hammers are translated into waves and ultimately patterns – providing a spectacular fusion of sonic alchemy and visual splendour. The dial is accentuated by Roman numeral hour markers at 12, 3 and 9 o’clock and a tourbillon cage at 6 o'clock. The 40 mm case in either white or pink gold is matched with a matte finish black alligator strap.
Gucci 25H Skeleton Tourbillon
A signature element of Gucci High Watchmaking is the use of transparent sapphire glass. This year, the Gucci 25H Skeleton Tourbillon line introduces three new 40 mm interpretations in the avant-garde material. The new versions are paired with black, blue or pink alligator straps while the dials are accented with matching coloured nuances on the Interlocking G logo at 12 o’clock, the hands and the flying tourbillon. The transparent sapphire case is ultra-thin, measuring only 8.2 mm in thickness, and offers a full 360-degree view of the skeletonised movement.
Gucci Interlocking
The Gucci Interlocking, a new line that combines two grand complications – the flying tourbillon and the jumping hours – is housed in a striking new cushion-shaped case. Its multi-layered dial display, filled with motion and depth, is a masterclass in details. The jumping hours display features a hand-lacquered hour disc adorned with Roman numerals, reminiscent of the Interlocking G motif. As the time jumps to the correct hour, the Roman numeral is revealed in an aperture within a semi-transparent, smoked sapphire glass in black or blue, which subtly conceals the other numerals on the hour disc. The minute hand disc is enclosed with a dazzling layer of iridescent aventurine glass, which also moves in sync with the oscillating weight behind, lending the timepiece a charming appeal.
Furthermore, the flying tourbillon at the heart of the dial is similar to the one on the new Gucci 25H Minute Repeater. The tourbillon cage is adorned with a GG logo that’s also echoed on the engraved caseback. Such meticulous details can also be spotted on the cushion case and the two-part bezel, both featuring a mix of brushed and polished finishes for a remarkable play of light. The timepieces are sized at 41 mm with a 10.7 mm thickness and presented in either pink or white gold.
G-Timeless Planetarium
The new G-Timeless Planetarium has 12 unique rotating precious stones that encircle a central tourbillon, ensuring an intense symphony of colour and light. A special start-and-stop function enables the stones to spin on their axes in 9 seconds and clockwise around the dial in 90 seconds. The collection is now enriched with fiery tones of opals and garnets, and sunny yellow beryls give way to verdant peridots and tourmalines, even as tranquil hues of topaz and tanzanite are rounded out by lustrous amethysts and fancy pink rubellites. Complementing the vibrant stones is a textured guilloché base that reflects the beauty and light of these stones. The tourbillon at the centre is crafted with a diamond-set flower motif, a design that’s echoed on the caseback. The 40 mm watch comes in either white or pink gold and has blue or subtle golden accents.
Image credits: Gucci