Cartier Creates Magic at Watches and Wonders 2024 with its Spectacular Novelties

Cartier has always been known for its unique creations where instantly recognisable silhouettes and shapes take centre stage. For Watches and Wonders 2024, the magic of time is at the heart of the Maison’s newest novelties. To begin with, the Maison’s beloved classics have been reimagined ― take the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph watch from the Cartier Privé collection. On the other hand, a play of abstraction and figuration is at the core of the Reflection de Cartier watch, a jewellery piece that is an optical phenomenon in itself. The Santos-Dumont Rewind watch boasts a movement that turns the hands counter-clockwise and the Santos de Cartier Dual Time watch helps the wearer read the time simultaneously in two different places. 

GMT India takes a closer look at the novelties. 

Cartier Privé Collection

‍

Cartier Tortue

‍

This year’s Cartier Privé collection offers a contemporary take on one of the most coveted watches in Cartier's lineage: the Tortue. Previously, the brand has released redesigned versions of the Crash, the Tank Cintrée, and the Tonneau. With the new Tortue, Cartier has chosen to introduce the monopoussoir chronograph complication. The Tortue watch made its debut in 1912, creating a dialogue between curves and taut lines. The new hours/minutes Tortue has been subtly reworked while retailing the essence of the original design. With a sleeker profile, the watch has flourished and been made lighter. A homage to the very first model, it features apple-shaped hands and a rail-track that follows the iconic shape of the watch around the hour markers, making the dial more legible. The new hours/minutes versions are a limited edition of 200 pieces and the platinum-set version has 50 pieces.

The monopoussoir chronograph was first added to the Tortue model in 1928 and notably reinterpreted in 1998 as part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris with refined details. The blued-steel apple-shaped hands, a hollowed-out central seconds hand and triangular motifs on the four corners of the dial lend the watch a contemporary look. The three functions (start, stop, and reset) are all concentrated in a single push-button integrated into the crown; it is activated in a single motion. The watch is powered by the Manufacture 1928 MC movement, with its exceptional finish and the curves of its Côtes de Genève decoration highlighting the shape of the bridges. The movement is 4.3 mm thick, making it the Maison's thinnest chronograph. This model is available in a limited edition of 200 numbered pieces.

‍

Animal Jewellery Watches 

The Maison has always drawn inspiration from nature and animals. In 1914, the panther's coat first appeared on a watch case. This year, the dreamy lineup had zebras and crocodiles inspiring this entirely paved creation. Graphic yet organic, each stripe has been lacquered by hand. A diamond-shaped dial is wrapped around the silhouette of this imaginary creature. The zebra models are offered in three different finishes: rose gold, white gold, and yellow gold.

The crocodile models are detailed with the tension of each slick curve, each spiked scale, and the captivating bright emerald eye. The rich chromatics are a result of the graded enamel that adorns its case and dial, harmonised with the colour gradients of the sapphires and diamonds. There are three variations: a white gold model matched with a bracelet bedecked with tourmalines, sapphires, emeralds, brilliant-cut diamonds; a white gold model with a navy blue alligator strap; and a white gold model with an iridescent purple calfskin strap. 

The collection also includes two sculptural novelties. Here, the front profiles of a crocodile, a tiger, and a panther meet the wearer’s eye directly. The animals’ jaws connect to the shining sunray dials of these stunning watches. The timepieces are presented on exceptionally flexible bracelets in a series of contrasting coloured stones that bring to life each animal’s coat, creating a visual rhythm.

Reflection De Cartier

Following the success of the Clash [Un]limited and Coussin watches, the Reflection de Cartier watch adds to the Maison’s odyssey of magic, illusion and fascination. This year, the collection's motto is “transcribing the mysteries of time through bold creations” and the Reflection de Cartier is a testament to the Maison’s savoir-faire as watchmaker and jeweller alike. The timepiece starts with the open bracelet’s unconventional architecture, which blends openwork and polished reflective gold with elongated lines and defined edges. 

The dainty dial has a gem-like bevelled glass. The timepiece is available in many versions: yellow and rose gold, one in diamond-set white gold and two in white gold, paved with coloured stones. The white gold model explores materials through its paving combinations. Snow setting is fused with inverted setting to create both tactile and visual appeal. 

The other version celebrates Louis Cartier’s peacock motif, wherein blue and green create a harmony, using chrysoprases, obsidians, emeralds, Paraiba tourmalines, and an iridescent blue-green lacquer wrapped around chiselled gold. Another model introduces a unique medley of colours with opals, amethysts, spessartite garnets, and tiger’s eye inserts.

Santos-Dumont Rewind and Santos de Cartier Dual Time

‍

Cartier has introduced two new iterations in the Santos range: the ultra-sophisticated Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind watch that pushes the boundaries of traditional timetelling and the Santos de Cartier Dual Time watch which tracks two different time zones at once. The models’ sleek, ergonomic lines serve as the perfect aesthetic complement to the innovative mechanisms.  

The rather intriguing name of the platinum Santos-Dumont Rewind does full justice to the fascinating way its movement works. Calibre 230 MC has an inverted mechanism and winds in reverse, meaning that the apple-shaped hands on the stunning carnelian dial move backward instead of forward. The Roman-numeral hour markers are inverted as well, moving from 11 to one on the dial instead of one to 11. Bold and highly refined, the ingenious model will be available in a limited edition of 200 numbered pieces.

The Santos de Cartier Dual Time watch is enhanced by subtle details like rhodium-finish sword-shaped hands coated with a luminescent material, a seven-sided faceted crown, and a grey counter showing a second adjustable time zone. Adding to the versatility, the bracelets are available in steel or leather.

‍