The New JLC Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 Variant Chimes in with a Stunning Deep Blue Dial
The minute repeater, often considered the pinnacle of horological creativity, has evolved dramatically over the decades. The earliest repeaters appeared in the late 17th century to address the difficulty of reading time in the dark. Early systems chimed the time with bells and were frequently powered by pull-string mechanisms. Of course, with advancement in watchmaking technology, minute repeaters became much more sophisticated in the modern era.
To underline the timeless appeal of minute repeaters, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) debuted the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon with a grained silver dial at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in 2014. Now, after more than a decade, the timepiece maker has released a brand-new interpretation of the ultra-thin minute repeater in a five-piece limited edition ― Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 (Ref. Q1313581)― that boasts a deep blue sunrayed dial, housed in an 18 ct white gold case.
At the time of its creation, the JLC Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater was one of the world's thinnest minute repeater wristwatches with a tourbillon in production; it is still the thinnest, measuring 7.8 mm. What’s more, this minute repeater is especially unusual because of its high-complication movement with automatic winding. The calibre itself, with 566 pieces, is only 4.7 mm thick. The 41 mm, white gold Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 watch has a deep blue, sunrayed dial, with elongated, dauphine hour, minute hands. The hour markers are highlighted with simple batons and the minutes by white dots.
The Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 represents eight separate patents, two for previous inventions related to chiming mechanisms ― crystal gongs (2005) and trebuchet hammers (2009) ― and six for the inventions developed specifically for the new timepiece, namely Flying Balance Wheel, Flying Balance Wheel in a Flying Tourbillon, S-Shaped Hairspring, Fixed Winding Stroke on the Minute Repeater, Retractable Push Button on the Minute Repeater, and Silent-Timelapse Reduction on the Minute Repeater.
Crystal gongs and trebuchet hammers improve the quality of the chime. The gongs, which are connected directly to the watch's glass, transform the sapphire crystal into a resonator, taking advantage of the material's outstanding acoustic properties. The articulated hammers recover the vast majority of the energy wasted in standard minute repeater design, resulting in a chime of unparalleled strength.
For Calibre 362, delivering a 42-hour power reserve, Jaeger-LeCoultre designed a revolutionary flying tourbillon with a balance wheel to achieve the desired thinness at 6 o’clock. The innovative S-shaped hairspring, placed above the balance wheel and visible to the wearer, was necessary for this arrangement. Uncaging the tourbillon resulted in a larger balance wheel and a faster oscillation rate of 21,600 vph. This increased stability and precision in timekeeping.
A silent-timelapse reduction patent, which is integrated into the strike train, reduces the pause between the chiming of the hours and minutes when there are no quarter-hours to strike. Jaeger-LeCoultre researchers also patented a new, unobtrusive unlocking button at 8 o'clock to activate the minute repeater while JLC engineers developed a retractable push button at 10 o’clock. When the locking button is moved, the pusher pops out; when the pusher is pressed in, the striking mechanism is activated and the pusher remains recessed until activated again, thus preserving the pure lines of the round case. This repeater activating system also delivers a performance benefit, enabling the case to be made water-resistant more easily. Turning the watch showcases the sapphire open caseback with a peripheral rotor. This positioning of the rotor can be observed through the slots around the dial as it rotates, adding visual intrigue. Finishing the watch is a blue alligator leather with small-scale alligator lining.
Image Credits: Jaeger-LeCoultre