The New Black-Toned Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC Showcased at DWW 2023

Precision timekeeping refers to the ability of a timekeeping system or device to accurately measure and maintain time over an extended period. The COSC is an independent Swiss organisation responsible for certifying the accuracy and precision of watches. It was created in 1973 and is based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The institute evaluates the movements of watches over a specified period, subjecting them to various tests under different conditions. Watches that successfully meet the stringent criteria, set by COSC, are granted the status of a “chronometer”. In other words, to earn the chronometer certification, a watch movement must meet strict standards of accuracy in different positions and at different temperatures. Needless to say, this certification is highly regarded in the watchmaking industry. Unveiled at the recently concluded Dubai Watch Week 2023, Ferdinand Berthoud’s Chronomètre FB 3SPC (Ref. FB 3SPC. 1 -1) is the first and only wristwatch, with a variable inertia balance and a cylindrical balance spring, to be officially chronometer-certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC).

Black dials can provide a sleek and modern look, and they often pair well with various case materials, such as stainless steel, rose gold, and even ceramic. The contrast between the black dial and other elements of the watch, such as hands, indices, and bezels, can create a visually striking and legible timepiece. The appeal of black dial watches lies in their versatility and ability to complement a wide range of styles, from casual to formal. Sporting a dark monochromatic look, the newly unveiled Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC watch comes in a 42.3 mm, 18 ct white gold case, with lugs and a crown at 3 o’clock. At 9 o’clock, there is a regulating organ, consisting of a balance wheel, a pallet-lever and an escape wheel, and their distinctive stepped bridges.

The barrel is positioned at 12 o’clock under an arched bridge and a power reserve indicator is seen at 2 o’clock. At 6 o’clock rests a black varnished seconds indicator with a counterweight while the gilded, faceted hours and minutes, which can be read on the ring on the periphery of the movement, are skeletonised and open-tipped. The dark theme also continues on the outer periphery of the dial that houses the 60-minute track and markings. 

Just like the previous FB3 that won this year’s GPHG award in the Chronometry category, this new version has a porthole at 9 o’clock, providing a different view of the splendid hairspring. Powering the watch is Calibre FB-SPC, a manually winding calibre, offering 72 hours of power reserve. Turning the watch over showcases the exhibition caseback in 18 ct white gold. Finishing the watch is a black alligator leather strap with an 18 ct white gold pin buckle.