Montblanc Redefines Adventure with Groundbreaking Innovations at Watches and Wonders 2025

Watches and Wonders 2025 has begun, showcasing in Geneva the latest and finest creations in haute horology. As the world's leading watchmaking exhibition, this year's edition promises breakthrough inventions and beautiful designs; expect to discover clocks that push the limits of workmanship. From iconic maisons to daring independents, the stage is set for an exciting week of horological brilliance that encompasses, among other things, Montblanc's latest releases.

This year, the watchmaker has debuted magnificent new iterations of the Iced Sea and 1858 Geosphere collections, which combine cutting-edge materials with delicate craftsmanship. While the Iced Sea series embraces dramatic new diving watches inspired by the frozen landscapes of glacial water, the 1858 Geosphere variants retain the collection’s adventurous spirit.

Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date 0 Oxygen

The two newly launched references are Ref. 134022 and Ref. 134024, both sized at 38 mm. Each of the models comes in a stainless steel case with a blue or white stainless steel 60-minute unidirectional rotatable bezel with a bi-coloured anodized aluminium insert. The glacier-pattern dials are also in white or light blue, replicating the colour and texture of ice. The pattern is created with a special technique called gratté-boisé as the base, lending each dial the impression of genuine depth and luminosity.

There’s a surprise element as well ― this is the first time a Montblanc Iced Sea model has been created in pure white. The light blue shade is also a new tone in the collection; it comes adorned with a sfumato effect. The smoky aesthetic comes from an Italian technique wherein tones and colours gradually merge into each other, producing softened outlines and hazy forms.

All dials come with white luminescent hands, Arabic hour markers for 12 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and 9 o’clock, and a dot at 12 o’clock on the bezel. Both references feature Montblanc’s Iced Sea logo on the dial and are finished on rubber or stainless steel bracelets. 

The final timepiece in this collection is a 41 mm distressed steel model (Ref. 134017). This material can be found on the lugs and the crown. There is a 60-minute stainless steel unidirectional rotatable bezel with a black ceramic insert lowered by laser from 0-15 minutes. The grey sfumato glacier-pattern dial has white luminescent rhodium-coated Arabic numerals for 12 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock, and rectangular markers; white luminescent rhodium-coated hour and minute hands; ruthenium-coated seconds hand; and the Montblanc Iced Sea logo at 6 o’clock. The model is finished on a black interchangeable rubber strap sporting a tapered and black-coated stainless steel and carbon double-folding clasp with a fine adjustment system.

Driving all three watches is Calibre MB 24.17/SW200 with a 38-hour power reserve. There is a 3D engraving on each caseback that features a scuba diver and an iceberg. This engraving was created by structuring the metal to generate both matte and polished finishes, bringing contrast and life to the image. All these timepieces have a date window at 3 o’clock. The Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date now has 0 Oxygen technology, which provides significant advantages for explorers who need their timekeeping equipment to work in some of the world's toughest situations. Zero oxygen inside the casing not only avoids fogging caused by dramatic temperature swings, but it also prevents oxidation. Without oxygen, all components survive longer and ensure consistent precision throughout time. Each clock also comes with a certificate showing verification of this unique yet invisible technology that ensures proper sealing without oxygen.

1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar LE30 & LE100

The timepieces are housed in 42 mm cases; the 18 ct Lime Gold version is restricted to 30 pieces while the  stainless steel one is limited to 100 pieces. Both editions are fitted with fixed fluted bezels inspired by Minerva’s historic timepieces and the first fluted bezels that date back to 1927. The Lime Gold model has a matching bezel, lugs, and crown, whereas the stainless steel version comes with an 18 ct white gold bezel.

Both models have silver-white dials. The stainless steel model has blue-coated hour markers, white luminescent blue-coated hour and minute hands, blue-coated seconds hand, and a 3D sapphire hand-painted Northern Hemisphere rotating globe. The Lime Gold variant, on the other hand, has rose gold-coated hour markers, white luminescent rose gold-coated hour and minute hands, and rose gold-coated seconds hand, along with a 3D sapphire hand-painted Northern Hemisphere rotating globe. Both novelties also have a month disc with the Roman goddess Minerva instead of July, and the historical Montblanc and Minerva logos.

The hand-painted three-dimensional rotating globes, featuring the Northern Hemisphere (Southern Hemisphere is available on request) and a day and night indication, are definitely the visual focal points. Each globe also indicates Greenwich Mean Time with an orange line and a 24-hour scale. Crafted from sapphire crystal, each globe is hand-painted on the underside. For the annual calendar functions, the large date is positioned at 12 o’clock, just above the historic Montblanc logo, and features two large apertures positioned side-by-side. The date is easily adjustable due to a corrector located at 2 o’clock. For the months, the timepiece maker has chosen to display them around the dial’s periphery via a red arrow showing the month in question, making them easily readable at a glance.

The red arrow is, of course, a nod to the Roman goddess Minerva, the deity of craftsmanship, often depicted as carrying a spear with an arrow at its tip. The watches are run by Calibre MB M14.58 with a 65-hour power reserve. The movement has rhodium-plated German silver, circular graining, hand-chamfered edges on the plate, and Côtes de Genève, hand-chamfered edges on the bridges. Gold-plated, circular grained, chamfered, diamond hubs are spotted on both sides of the going-train. Both models come in blue interchangeable calf leather straps with alligator print. The stainless steel version gets a stainless steel triple-folding clasp while the Lime Gold model has an 18 ct Lime Gold and stainless steel triple-folding clasp.

‍1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition

This 986-piece limited-edition timepiece honours mountaineer Reinhold Messner’s ascent of the highest peak in Antarctica. It comes in a 43.5 mm titanium case that is directly inspired by the Mount Vinson landscape; the brand-new composite middle case is crafted from quartz fibres, aluminized basalt fibres, CaCO3, and light blue resin. The middle case sports a luminous outline of Mount Vinson that shines white during daytime and glows blue by nighttime; it is positioned on the left side of the case so that only the wearer can see it.

This icy theme continues on the dial with a blue-green and light grey sfumato glacier pattern that was created using gratté-boisé. This time-consuming process (gratté-boisé) is four times longer than that needed to make a standard dial, and requires over 30 separate steps. The dial is further highlighted by a light grey anodized aluminium bezel with blue luminescent cardinal points. Further, the watch face has white luminescent rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes, white luminescent rhodium-coated hours and minutes hands, white luminescent dual time hand, luminescent Northern and Southern Hemisphere globes with blue-green Greenwich meridians, a date window at 3 o’ clock, and a dual time indication at 9 o’clock.

The timepiece is powered by Caliber MB 29.25, featuring an automatic movement with Montblanc’s Manufacture Worldtime complication; it delivers 42 hours of power reserve. As with all 1858 Geosphere models, both Northern and Southern Hemispheres are represented by two three-dimensional globes that turn anti-clockwise, and include a day and night indication. Montblanc has included dots marking the seven peaks of Messner’s List on the Northern Hemisphere globe and the Mont Blanc summit. Turning the watch over showcases the engraving of this majestic peak on the titanium caseback. It has been created with a technique that provides an authentic 3D rendering ― it looks almost like a photograph. In the final colouring phase, the colours are created with laser-generated oxidation: the desired colour is determined by the level of oxidation. The watch is fitted with a new interchangeable rubber strap (the previous straps were in calf leather). The blue-green strap features a mountaineer’s rope motif, in keeping with the Alpine theme. The strap design also includes a mountainous profile pattern on the inside to improve breathability and comfort on the wrist. This rubber strap also includes elegant stitching above the lugs, a signature feature on watches in the 1858 collection.

‍Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Monte Rosa Limited Edition

Limited to 100 pieces, this 42 mm watch has an 18 ct rose gold case without oxygen; the slim curved horns feature polished and satinated finishing. There is a bidirectional rotatable bezel with black ceramic insert, knurled finishing, and engraved cardinal points coated with Super-LumiNova® with blue emission. This new timepiece comes with Montblanc’s 0 Oxygen technology. 

This new model is fitted with a new black sfumato glacier pattern dial with white luminescent rose gold-coated Arabic numerals and indexes, white luminescent rose gold-coated cathedral-shaped hour and minute hands, white luminescent dual time hand, luminescent Northern and Southern hemispheres globes with brown blue-green Greenwich meridians, and historical Montblanc logo at 3 o’clock.

Powering this watch is Calibre MB 29.25 with Manufacture worldtime complication, delivering a 42-hour power reserve. Turning the watch showcases the titanium caseback with a 3D laser colour engraving of the Monte Rosa mountain. The watch is finished on a black interchangeable rubber strap with a rope pattern and a rose-coated stainless steel triple-folding clasp.

1858 Automatic Date 0 Oxygen

This 41 mm watch has a cupro aluminium case without oxygen; slim curved horns sport polished and satinated finishing. This novelty has a fixed brown ceramic bezel, polished finishing, and engraved cardinal points coated with beige Super-LumiNova® with white emission. The dial has a grained brown sfumato finish with white luminescent rose gold-coated Arabic numerals, white luminescent rose gold-coated hour and minute hands, a seconds hand, a beige minute scale, and a black date on a white background. 

Powering the watch is Calibre MB 24.17 with a 38-hour power reserve. Turning the watch showcases the stainless steel caseback with cupro PVD treatment. The watch is finished on a brown interchangeable sfumato calf leather strap with beige stitching as well as on a stainless steel bracelet with cupro PVD-treated double-folding clasp aided by a fine adjustment system.

Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph

This 43 mm stainless steel (Ref. 132947) reference has a stainless steel monopusher chronograph at 8 o’clock and an onion crown at 3 o’clock. This model has a green dial with a Clous de Paris pattern; white rhodium-coated dauphine hour and minute hands with blue luminescence; a rhodium-coated dual time skeletonised hand; two rotating domed discs; 60-second and 30-minute counters, on which a rhodium-coated applied bridge is used as a hand; and mention of Chronographe Nicolas Rieussec on the flange at 12 o’clock and Académie des Sciences de Paris - 1821 at 6 o’clock.

The Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph is powered by the self-winding Manufacture monopusher chronograph movement MB R200, which is equipped with a column wheel that controls the monopusher mechanism. To improve the chronograph’s start, the connection between the gear train and the chronograph's wheels is alternately engaged and disengaged by a vertical disc clutch, and functions without any wear and tear. This mechanism prevents the elapsed time discs from jumping when the chronograph is switched on. 

Additionally, a rapid-reset mechanism for the hour and date is practical for travellers who journey from one time zone to another. These indicators can be reset either clockwise or counter-clockwise without affecting the position of the minute hand. The rate is regulated by a large 10 mm diameter balance wheel with screws, which oscillates regularly. The stable rate is further enhanced by the double barrel, providing 72 hours of power reserve. Furthermore, the balance bridge is openworked, ensuring the precise positioning of the oscillator for optimal shock resistance.

Star Legacy

This collection has three novelties. The first is the Star Legacy Full Calendar 42 mm (Ref. 134358), which comes in a 42 mm stainless steel pebble-shaped case. This watch indicates the hours, minutes, and seconds as well as the day, date, month, and moonphase. 

This novelty has rhodium-coated Roman numerals, leaf-shaped hands, a railway track with dots, a filet sauté that runs around the periphery of the dial, a date hand with silver-coloured half-moon tip, and the Montblanc emblem on the counterweight of the second hand.

The Montblanc Star Legacy Full Calendar watch is powered by Montblanc’s automatic movement, calibre MB 24.30. This recently revised movement simplifies the setting of the calendar by using two pushers instead of the previous four. This movement has a 50-hour power reserve. Turning the watch showcases the open sapphire crystal caseback.

Next in line is Star Legacy Automatic Day & Date (Ref. 134296). This model is housed in a 39 mm stainless steel pebble-shaped case with an open caseback. The day and date are indicated in two aligned apertures at 3 o’clock and are available in a choice of French or English, and have Roman hour markers. The timepiece is powered by the MB 24.28 automatic movement with a 38-hour (approximately) power reserve.

This last novelty is the Star Legacy Automatic Date (Ref. 134359). The 42 mm stainless steel Montblanc Star Legacy Automatic Date comes with a date window at 6 o’clock and rhodium-coated hands and numerals. It is powered by the MB 24.17 automatic movement that has a 38-hour power reserve and supports the hours, minutes, seconds, and date. 

All models are water-resistant for up to 5 bar (approximately 50 metres), and come with Montblanc’s interchangeable strap system and the newly designed anthracite-coloured calf leather strap with vertical sfumato design. The anthracite-coloured dial features the sfumato effect as well as the exploding star guilloché pattern, present in all three models.

Bohème

Montblanc has released three novelties as part of the Bohème collection. The first is the Automatic Date 30 mm (Ref. 133306). The Montblanc Bohème Automatic Date comes in a 30 mm stainless steel case and features a sunbrushed blue dial adorned with diamond hour markers, rhodium-coated floral Arabic numerals, and rhodium-coated hands. The dial reveals a filet sauté pattern around the periphery of the dial, an engraved circular line that frames the sunbrushed finish, and a stamping technique called filé d’étoiles for the ring containing the numerals and diamond indexes. 

Powered by the Maison’s MB 24.19 automatic movement, with a power reserve of 38 hours, the Montblanc Bohème Automatic Date indicates the hours, minutes, and seconds as well as a date in an almond-shaped aperture at 6 o’clock. The date numerals are handwritten in a romantic font style. There is a blue calf leather strap with alligator print featuring Montblanc’s interchangeable strap system; an additional strap in silver calf leather is provided as well. This year, the Montblanc Bohème Automatic Date is also available on an interchangeable stainless steel bracelet with a textured central link and fine adjustment system.

The next watches are Bohème Day & Night 30 mm (Ref. 133334), and 34 mm (Ref. 133310). The new Montblanc Bohème Day & Night models come in a choice of 30 mm or 34 mm stainless steel cases. Like the Automatic Date, they feature sunbrushed blue dials with diamond hour markers, rhodium-coated floral Arabic numerals, and rhodium-coated hands. A filet sauté pattern around the periphery of the dial, an engraved circular line that frames the sunbrushed finish, and a stamping technique called filé d’étoiles for the background behind the numerals and diamond markers enhance the watch aesthetics.

Fitted with the automatic calibre MB 24.20 with a 42-hour power reserve, these two new models indicate the hours, minutes, and seconds as well as the date and a day and night display. The date is presented in an almond-shaped aperture at 6 o’clock with handwritten numerals. This romantic font has also been applied to the dial for the day and night mention, “Jour et Nuit”. The celestial day and night complication is of particular note as the disc has been designed in the style of watercolour painting to show the changing sky over a period of 24 hours, adding a playfully sophisticated detail to the timepiece. The open caseback offers a view of the movement. Finishing the watches is a blue calf leather strap with alligator print featuring Montblanc’s interchangeable strap and bracelet system; an additional strap in silver calf leather and a stainless steel bracelet with a textured central link and fine adjustment system are provided as well. 

1858 The Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition

Limited to 100 pieces, the new 1858 The Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition (Ref. 134281) comes in a 43 mm stainless steel case with sapphire openings in the middle and polished finishing. An 18 ct yellow gold fluted bezel, and brown-coated bridges and plates with yellow gold-coloured gear train can be seen on the movement.

In keeping with all Montblanc’s complicated movements, the distinctive Minerva arrow and the Maison’s V-shaped bridge are also on display. This model also has a monopusher in the crown. Powering the watch is Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M17.26, offering a 50-hour power reserve. The timepiece is fitted with an engraved caseback featuring an intricate drawing of the historic Minerva Manufacture, and comes with a brown sfumato calf leather strap with alligator print and a stainless steel triple-folding clasp with fine adjustment system.

1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition

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Limited to 100 pieces, this 44 mm watch has a stainless steel case with slim curved horns featuring polished and satin finishing, and a fixed 18 ct white gold fluted bezel. The dial features a dark burgundy colour with sunray decoration, black chronograph counters, and white luminescent Arabic numerals for an elegant new look. Providing readability and vintage style, the new burgundy-toned dial is enhanced with vintage-shaped hour- minute and seconds hands, a central split-second hand, a 30-minute chronograph counter, and a tachymeter scale.

The calibre MB M16.31 features handcrafted traditional finishings such as Côtes de Genève, inner angles, circular graining, and bevelling, all achieved at the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret. The calibre has two column wheels for the chronograph and the split complication, horizontal coupling, and a power reserve of 50 hours. The pusher at 2 o’clock can then stop one hand while the other continues running.

A further push, and the stopped hand can be released to “catch up” with the running hand, allowing for repeated intermediate time measurements. The open caseback reveals the movement. The watch is finished on a dark burgundy-toned interchangeable calf leather strap with alligator print and a stainless steel triple folding clasp sporting a fine adjustment system.