Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils New Duometre Models at Watches and Wonders 2024

While Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Watches and Wonders novelties from last year spotlighted the Golden Ratio, the Maison chooses to highlight the pursuit of precision across its just-launched novelties at the ongoing Watches and Wonders 2024. Precision has remained at the heart of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s creative and entrepreneurial spirit since the Maison’s beginnings in 1833 under the helm of founder Antoine LeCoultre, an inventor and watchmaker whose work was staunchly guided by precision.

The Watches and Wonders 2024 novelties—stunning new Duometre models—serve as elegant and eloquent expressions of this central tenet of the brand: the pursuit of precision. GMT India takes a closer look at the models.

‍

Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual‍

(Q6202420 – limited edition of 20 pieces)

Jaeger-LeCoultre is no stranger to increasingly sophisticated movements that form the heart of the brand’s timepieces; the brand’s expertise in tourbillons serves as a fitting reminder, especially the Duometre mechanism that enables the addition of complications without any compromise on the accuracy of the timekeeping function. Introduced in 2007, the patented Duometre mechanism features two barrels and two separate gear trains housed inside a single calibre and linked to a single regulating organ. One gear train drives the time indications and the other powers all additional functions. The division of power supply in this manner ensures that the Duometre mechanism has an exceptionally high degree of operating accuracy; the power reserve of each barrel is 50 hours.

The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual—arguably the outright star among the brand’s novelties this year—acts as the perfect embodiment of the inventiveness of the Duometre mechanism. The new Calibre 388 features an entirely new tourbillon construction: one that spins on three axes to create a ‘spinning top’ effect. In order to minimise friction within the workings, the 163-component tourbillon (that weighs less than 0.7 grams) is supported on ceramic ball bearings. The perpetual calendar mechanism offers the ideal complement to the tourbillon. Other notable features of Calibre 388 include a Grande Date display, set at the 3 o’clock position on the hours-and-minutes subdial. The year indication displays the last digit of a leap year in red—a Jaeger-LeCoultre patent—and the moon-phase indication is accurate to 122 years. 

The silver opaline dial flaunts a refined symmetry with the left-hand side being open-worked to provide a view of the tourbillon performing its ‘spinning top’ rotation. A sapphire crystal window on the side of the case offers another view of this stunning mechanical show. The deep blue lacquer against which the tourbillon is set represents a starry sky, further elevating the overall aesthetic appeal. At 44 mm, the pink gold case (comprising complex 34 separate parts)—featuring a mix of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces—functions as the right vessel for the mechanical excellence that the timepiece showcases.

‍

Duometre Chronograph Moon‍

(Pink Gold: Q622252J/Platinum: Q622656J)

When, in 2007, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the Duometre mechanism, it was in the form of a chronograph. Now, in 2024, the Maison applies the Duometre concept in a timepiece that combines the precision of a chronograph with the charm of a celestial complication. The 42.5mm Duometre Chronograph Moon—powered by the new Calibre 391—exemplifies a fascinating contrast between the lightning-fast operation of the chronograph (that can time intervals as small as 1/6th of a second) and the slow rhythmic movement of the moon as it passes through its cycle in 29.53 days, complemented by a Night and Day display.

Calibre 391 combines a manually wound mono-pusher chronograph with moon-phase and night-day complications as well as with two power reserve indicators and a seconde foudroyante (flying second) display. Upon the activation of the chronograph mechanism, the foudroyante hand begins to whirl, completing a rotation in one second, during which it beats six times – stopping instantaneously when the chronograph timer is stopped, thus providing a reading accurate to 1/6th of a second.

The elegant dial (copper-coloured opaline or silver opaline) features the distinctive three-counter layout and long, thin, recognisable hands that remain a hallmark of the Duometre series. The main dial surface and the centre of each subdial has a fine, almost powdery texture due to the opaline finish while the broad ring around each subdial is decorated with azuré (ultra-fine engraving in perfectly regular, concentric circles). The moon-phase display is integrated into the chronograph hours and minutes subdial, set at 3 o’clock; the Night and Day display is integrated into the time subdial at 9 o’clock. The seconde foudroyante is positioned in a subdial at 6 o’clock, flanked by the two open-worked areas that reveal parts of the mechanism. The two power reserves (50 hours for each barrel and gear train) can be seen on the arc-shaped bridge on each side of the subdial.

‍

Duometre Quantieme Lunaire

(Q604848J)

The first Duometre timepiece in steel, this new interpretation of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire—with a striking blue dial and a brand new 42.5mm case—has a contemporary air that pairs seamlessly with the distinctive Duometre spirit.

The theme of precision is evident not just in the workings of the movement (Calibre 381) but also in the beauty of the design and finishes of the timepiece, such as the most distinctive element of the deep-blue dial: the seconde foudroyante hand that moves continuously in a subdial at 6 o’clock. Making a complete revolution in one second (versus a ‘standard’ seconds hand, which rotates in 60 seconds) with six ‘jumps’ per rotation, the foudroyante hand makes it possible to observe intervals of precisely one-sixth of a second. The long and very fine hands—a signature of all Duometre watches—and the symmetrical layout, with three subdials forming an inverted pyramid, stand out as well.

The opaline main dial has a softness about it that is contrasted with the sunray-brushed surface of the lower section of the dial. The two power reserve indicators, distinguished from this sunrayed background by virtue of an opaline arc, adds an extra touch of refinement. The case with its rounded contours—a modern-day interpretation of the savonette (the French word ‘savonette’ literally means a small disc of soap with rounded contours that can be cradled in the palm of a hand) pocket watches created by the Maison in the 19th-century—harmoniously complements the elements of the dial, thus enhancing the all-round visual appeal.

‍

Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

Q114258J (pink gold with midnight blue dial); Q1142510 (pink gold with eggshell dial); Q1142501(pink gold with diamonds and eggshell dial); Q114842J (steel with silver sunrayed dial)

In addition to the Duometre novelties, Jaeger-LeCoultre has also unveiled a new interpretation of the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar. Available in four new references, the model features a subtly modernised case and dial design accompanied by a significantly enhanced power reserve. While the size of the case remains an elegant 39mm, the revised proportions give it a slimmer silhouette and the more elongated lugs make it more comfortable on the wrist.The dial design has undergone a subtle modification as well; notable enhancements include the elongation of the applied hour markers and the finish of the Dauphine hands: both polished and satin.

The four variations include a model with a new gradient midnight blue dial that offsets its pink gold case with a light touch of drama. The subdials’ azure finish stands out against the sunray-brushing of the main dial, allowing for a beautiful play of light. The two pink gold models flaunt classical eggshell dials, one with diamonds set around the bezel and the other without. The alligator strap boosts the visual harmony of the timepiece, making it the quintessential dress watch.

‍