Haute Couture Meets Horology: Five Iconic Watches from Luxury Fashion Houses

For fashion brands stepping into the world of horology, winning over watch enthusiasts who prefer mechanical finesse to design can be a veritable challenge. Over the years, we’ve seen some fashion houses meeting the challenge successfully; in fact, they have taken the watch world by storm with both beautiful designs and mechanical prowess of their timepieces. GMT India spotlights some of these fashion giants and their showstopping watches. 

Chanel J12 

The J12 line was introduced in 1999 by French haute couture house Chanel. It was the brainchild of Chanel's then chief designer Jacques Hélleu, who was a fan of yacht racing and named the series after the J-class 12-metre racing yachts. The design was meant to be practical yet beautiful for a sports watch. Using an unconventional material like ceramic, J12 was one of the first few watches that revolutionised the use of ceramic in horology. An icon of watchmaking, the J12 model is powered by the Caliber 12.1 or Caliber 12.2, both self-winding movements produced by the Swiss Manufacture Kenissi, co-owned by Chanel.

Louis Vuitton Tambour

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Louis Vuitton’s Tambour watch made its debut in 2002 and its distinctive drum-shaped case — an immediately recognisable silhouette — soon became a striking mode of time interpretation. In 2023, Tambour was reinterpreted. Its new avatar appeared remarkably mature – think exceptional finish, sophisticated, and sculptural, with a slimmer form and more fluid lines. ​​The elevated Tambour iterations also marked a couple of firsts for the brand — an integrated bracelet, and a brand new, exclusive and exquisitely crafted automatic movement, designed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

La Fabrique du Temps is the watchmaking atelier of the Maison in Geneva. Founded and led by master watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas, La Fabrique du Temps has brought award-winning horological complications to Louis Vuitton. 

Hermès Cape Cod

The simple yet chic Cape Cod watch was designed in 1991. Inspired by the rich history of the American East Coast, the square-within-a-rectangle watch case took its unique shape from the Hermès ‘Chaîne d'Ancre’, a link designed to resemble a nautical anchor chain. The original design was by Henri d’Origny and the double-tour strap bracelet in bridle leather was created by Belgian designer Martin Margiela in 1998. 

Gucci 25H 

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In 2023, Gucci launched new models as part of its 25H watch collection. These watches seamlessly blend Italian design with horological acumen and retro aesthetics with contemporary execution. Featuring sleeker forms and streamlined silhouettes, the new variations have sharp, ultra-thin profiles. The contrasting finishes, matched with sculptured lines, ensure a sophisticated balance. A milestone in Gucci's Swiss watchmaking history, some automatic styles are fitted with the first in-house GG727.25.A caliber, housed in an ultra-thin 7.2 mm case with a sleek bezel and contemporary architectural details.

Dior Gem 

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The GEM collection was designed by French jewellery designer Victoire de Castellane for Dior. Its organic abstraction and graphic lines form a subtle harmony between nature and couture. The irregular octagonal dial, the flexible, clasp-free straps or the slanted cuff openings, trimmed with a precious studding of grain-set white diamonds – all come together to blur the lines between watchmaking and high jewellery. 

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