GMT India Webinar Exclusive: Maximilian Büsser on the Passion, Authenticity, and Future of Watchmaking

As a passionate community of watch enthusiasts at GMT India and Friends, we believe that timepieces are more than just instruments of time; they are works of art, symbols of craftsmanship, and expressions of personal style.

We were incredibly fortunate to have recently hosted Maximilian Büsser, the visionary behind MB&F, a brand renowned for its groundbreaking designs and intricate mechanical movements. In fact, MB&F has redefined the world of horology with its unique and captivating timepieces, often described as wearable art.

In this blog post, we present the key insights from our conversation with Büsser, exploring the inspiration behind MB&F's designs and the passion that drives its innovative approach to watchmaking.

MB&F's Partnership with Chanel

MB&F's journey began with a single drawing and modest capital. Despite the challenges, the brand has remained steadfast in its commitment to creativity and innovation. A significant milestone was the introduction of the Legacy Machine series, which defied expectations with its round watch designs. 

To strengthen the brand's future and preserve its values, MB&F recently partnered with Chanel, which acquired a 25% stake in the independent watchmaker, solidifying their position as a minority shareholder. This partnership not only bolsters MB&F’s financial stability, but it also offers access to Chanel's vast resources and expertise in the luxury goods industry.

Chanel has a history of supporting independent brands and allowing them to maintain their unique identities. The collaboration is designed to ensure that MB&F continues to pursue its vision while benefiting from Chanel's support and guidance. Furthermore, this strategic move provides a succession plan for the company's leadership. Büsser believes that collaboration with other creative individuals can lead to more innovative and inspiring outcomes. 

The Importance of Passion and Authenticity in Watch Collecting

Büsser emphasises that watch collecting should be driven by passion and a genuine appreciation for the craft. He cautions against buying watches solely for financial gain or to impress others. “True enthusiasts understand the complexities, history, and artistry behind each timepiece,” he stressed.

Büsser's advice aligns with the broader sentiment in the watchmaking community: collecting should be a personal journey, not a status symbol. It's about connecting with the stories behind the watches, appreciating the craftsmanship, and finding pieces that resonate with watch lovers deeply.

The Importance of Maintaining Creative Autonomy

A crucial point emphasised in the conversation involves the importance of maintaining creative autonomy. Büsser said, “Despite the recent acquisition by Chanel, the brand will retain its independence and continue to prioritise creative expression.”

Büsser's insistence on maintaining creative control aligns with the core values of MB&F. The brand has always been driven by a passion for innovation and a desire to push the boundaries of watchmaking. He is safeguarding the essence of MB&F and ensuring that the brand remains true to its roots. 

His fondness for 19th-century watchmaking helps him recognise the importance of both tradition and innovation in horology. He believes that by drawing inspiration from the past while incorporating modern elements, MB&F can create timepieces that are both timeless and cutting-edge.

Büsser encourages taking calculated risks and embracing failure as a natural part of the creative process. He believes that by not being afraid to experiment and make mistakes, artists and creators can discover new possibilities, and push the boundaries of their craft.

The Influence of Childhood Experiences on Creative Inspiration

Büsser's childhood experiences, particularly his solitary pursuits and fascination with science fiction, have profoundly influenced his creative process. His love for model aeroplanes and his admiration for fictional characters like Han Solo from Star Wars have provided a rich source of inspiration for the aeronautical themes that permeate MB&F's designs.

This connection between childhood experiences and creative expression highlights the importance of personal narratives in shaping artistic endeavours. Büsser's story serves as a reminder that even the most imaginative ideas can be rooted in seemingly ordinary experiences.

The Importance of Continuous Learning and Evolution

The discussion with Büsser also highlights the importance of continuous learning and evolution in the creative process. He emphasises that as artists and creators, it's essential to remain open to new ideas, challenge oneself, and be willing to adapt to changing circumstances. Büsser's journey exemplifies this principle. He said, “I acknowledge that my creative vision has evolved, influenced by new experiences and discoveries.” 

This willingness to embrace change has allowed him to create avant-garde designs. By recognising the value of continuous learning and adaptation, creative individuals can stay relevant, avoid stagnation, and continue to produce work that resonates with audiences.

Show and Tell: Büsser's Favourite Timepieces

During our conversation, Max Büsser highlighted three of his favourite MB&F timepieces that are still in production:

LM101: This entry-level piece is known for its simplicity and elegance. Despite being initially overlooked, it has gained significant popularity in recent years. Büsser shared the interesting story of how LM101 was initially met with lukewarm reception, even within the MB&F team. 

Many believed that a round watch would not resonate with their clientele, accustomed to the brand's more path-breaking designs. However, Büsser persisted, believing that LM101's unique features, such as its enormous flying balance wheel and hand-winding mechanism, would eventually captivate collectors. And he was right. In recent years, LM101 has experienced a surge in demand, becoming one of MB&F's most sought-after models.

LM Sequential EVO: This chronograph features a unique sequential function that allows for the precise timing of multiple events. Büsser explained to us the development process behind the LM Sequential EVO, highlighting the challenges they faced in creating a chronograph that could accurately measure and display multiple elapsed times simultaneously.

The team's innovative solution involved designing a complex movement with four separate functions, each controlled by a dedicated chronograph pusher. The LM Sequential EVO is a testament to MB&F's remarkable technical prowess.

HM11: Inspired by mid-century architecture, this watch showcases MB&F's innovative design and intricate mechanical movements. Büsser explained how the idea for HM11 took shape when he was inspired by a house designed by Architect Charles Haertling.

The watch features a rotating case that resembles a miniature house, with different functions representing various rooms. Büsser talked about the technical challenges to creating a watch that could rotate while remaining water-resistant and functional. Indeed, HM11 showcases MB&F's ability to blend art and engineering to create truly unique and captivating timepieces.

Needless to say, the conversation with Büsser provided valuable insights into the world of independent watchmaking and the creative process behind MB&F's innovative designs. Büsser's emphasis on childlike curiosity, risk-taking, and collaboration offers valuable lessons for aspiring artists and entrepreneurs. 

Watch the full webinar to learn more about MB&F and Büsser's insights. Also, stay tuned for our forthcoming webinars featuring other renowned figures in the watch industry. To register with the GMT India and Friends community and receive updates on our events, please visit our website and follow us on Instagram.

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