The Bigger the Better? These Oversized Watches Hold the Answer

GMT India examines seven oversized timepieces from leading brands, which seem to defy the current craze for smaller watch cases
The Bigger the Better? These Oversized Watches Hold the Answer
August 2, 2024
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The Bigger the Better? These Oversized Watches Hold the Answer

The smaller the better. When it comes to case size, that seems to be the trend being followed by luxury watch brands these days. Cases are being shrunk to achieve highly compact proportions ― typically to 40 mm or below. However, some watches do require a large casing (beyond 40 mm) to function properly. So, we look at seven oversized timepieces that seem to defy the current craze for smaller watch cases. 

Oris Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV

The Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV features a 43.5 mm stainless steel case with a screw-down at 3 o'clock along with protection; the unidirectional rotating bezel has a grey tungsten insert displaying a 60-minute scale and a triangle at the 60-minute mark.  The gradient turquoise and blue dial, shielded by a double-domed sapphire crystal, offers a vertical effect that resembles the sun's rays filtering through the water on the Great Barrier Reef, as seen from above.

The connected, shield-shaped and faceted hour indices are tall, with Alpha-style hour and minute hands. To boost visibility in low-light circumstances, Super-LumiNova has been applied to the hands, the hour markers, and the lollipop central seconds hand. The new Oris Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV features an in-house Calibre 400 automatic movement. It has a five-day power reserve and strong anti-magnetic capabilities. It is finished on a multi-piece stainless steel metal bracelet.

Price: INR 3,80,000 (approx.)

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49

The Laureato has evolved over time, taking on many shapes, sizes, materials, and complications. With a diameter of 42 mm, the Laureato Chronograph is crafted in grade 5 titanium. It is called Ti49, both a reference to the material and the fact that Laureato is now 49 years old. The octagonal bezel sits atop a circular plinth resting upon a tonneau-shaped case. Girard-Perregaux has given the new Laureato Ti49 a slightly reworked dial as well; it is finished in a monochromatic  grey tone and decorated with a Clous de Paris stamped pattern.

The grey PVD-treated baton-style hour and minute hands are teamed up with matching baton-type hour markers. The subdials for the small seconds and the chronograph have distinctly modern circular snailing; a date window can be spotted at 4:30. Powering the watch is the Calibre GP03300-0141, with a 46-hour power reserve. 

Price: INR 17,73,000 (approx.)

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph

The watch features a 45 mm C-SMC carbon case and a black ceramic bezel with a white-lacquered 60-minute marker. The titanium crown features a red-lacquered ring at 3 o'clock, and the lugs are coated with black DLC. The chronograph pushers at 2 o'clock (to begin and end the function) and 4 o'clock (to restart the function) are skeletonised. The dial features a black lower flange with transferred text and minute tracks as well as a black top flange with screw-like hour markers that are rhodium-plated and filled with Super-LumiNova.

The inner periphery features a 500 km/hr tachymeter scale. The timepiece includes a column wheel and a date window at 6 o'clock that controls the chronograph's start, stop, and return to ‘0’ functions. The watch is powered by the RD780, which has a power reserve of 72 hours. The movement allows for instant restarting of the timer function while the chronograph is running. The calibre includes an integrated chronograph with two patents: one for the chronograph's second hand and another for the minute counter display.

Price: INR 1,05,48,000 (approx.)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition

The watch has a 43 mm 18 ct pink gold casing. The tourbillon's regulator spins minute by minute, with an orbital rotation around the dial each day. As a result, the flying tourbillon rotates around the watch once a day, tracing the 24 hours and replicating the earth's revolution on its own axis. The 24-hour ring on the dial's periphery remains constant, allowing you to tell the time in any time zone, as the map and the city ring spin.

The crown is used to set the global time and minutes (for example, to align London with the current GMT time) as well as to change the wearer's local time zone (by simply moving the hour hand forward or backward in one-hour increments). Each dial takes 70 hours of effort. The fixed hour ring around the revolving map contains applied numerals and hour markers. Powering the watch is Calibre 948 with a 48-hour power reserve. The timepiece is finished on a black alligator leather strap with a folding buckle. 

Price: INR 2,40,00,000 (approx.)

Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon

This Jacob & Co. timepiece boasts a black PVD titanium casing that complements the car's robust exterior and distinguishing elements, including the front grille, side radiator inlets, and massive sapphire side windows. The clock measures 52 mm x 44 mm. The three-subdial configuration that replicates the car’s instrument cluster is shielded by a single sapphire crystal. A 30-second flying tourbillon starts on the left.

The retrograde indication for both jumping hours (with a red hand) and minutes (with a blue hand) in the centre is comparable to the rev counter and speedometer on the most recent Bugatti model. The Bugatti Tourbillon's engine automaton is based on the new tiny V16 (rather than W16!) engine block. It consists of a single sapphire block with 16 cylinders to house the same number of titanium pistons. They are driven by a single-axis crankshaft. 

Price: INR 2,90,00,000 (approx.)

Bovet Recital 28

The Récital 28 Prowess 1 is housed in a 46.3 mm platinum case. The crown at 3 o'clock features a pusher that allows you to set it four distinct times with three positions: winding, world-time setting, and time setting. This timepiece displays cities and time zones on rollers in black PVD and the dial’s inner and outer rings are made of aventurine. Each of the 24 rollers has four positions that can be adjusted by pressing the crown: UTC, AST (American Summer Time), EAS (Europe and America Summer Time), and EWT (European Winter Time), which are displayed on an additional roller to the left of the world-time indicator.

The dial has a double-sided flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock. Powering the watch is Caliber R28-70-00X, a manual winding movement with 10 days of power reserve. Turning the watch over showcases the exhibition caseback, in particular, the calendar mechanism as well as the power reserve indication on 10 days.

Price: INR 6,18,00,000 (approx.)

Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon "Quai de l'Horloge" 5345

In 2020, Breguet unveiled the platinum Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345, which showcased most of the inner workings of the watch on the dial. This year, the model has been upgraded with a rose gold case, lugs, and crown. The sapphire frame around the dial is 46 mm in diameter; it has laser-engraved Roman numerals and blue-lacquered minute markers. The hands, including the minute hand and the top bridge that functions as an hour hand, are in blued steel to ensure contrast with the rest of the dial.

The platinum edition had a silver-toned lower dial with Clou de Paris and fan patterns; the new rose gold variant features a rose gold moveable bridge and a rhodium-plated lower mainplate. Both feature a flinqué rayonnant hand-guilloché motif. The two barrel bridges, which resemble openworked ‘Bs’, are composed of steel and finished with rose gold. Powering the watch is a manual winding calibre 588N2 with a 50-hour power reserve.

Price: On Request

*Prices in India are subject to taxes and exchange rate fluctuations, and may vary accordingly.
Image Credits: Respective Brands

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