See-Through Sophistication: The Skeleton Dial Revolution

Skeleton dials on watches reveal the delicate mechanics of timekeeping, combining creativity with technical precision. In other words, unlike ordinary dials, which cover the movement beneath, skeleton dials offer a glimpse of the inner workings of a watch, including gears, springs, and escapements, in all their glory. Transparency is, therefore, the name of the game in this case. This openworked design not only emphasises the artistry required to create a clock, but it also celebrates the complexity and beauty of horology. Often combined with exquisite engraving or ornamental finishes, skeleton dials transform watches into wearable pieces of art. 

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Origins and Evolution

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Skeleton watches date back to the 18th century, when watchmakers tried to demonstrate their craftsmanship by removing non-essential components of a movement to disclose its inner workings. These early attempts were frequently constructed as one-of-a-kind or bespoke pieces for aristocratic clients. Skeleton watches became a symbol of technological skill as watchmaking improved in the 19th and 20th centuries. Brands began to include skeletonised pocket timepieces, and later wristwatches, in their collections.

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Key Design Features

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A skeleton watch's open dial provides a direct view of the movement. This design necessitates precise finishing, as each visible component must be visually appealing. Many skeleton watches have sapphire crystal backs, which allow complete visibility of the movement from all sides. Engraving, perlage, Côtes de Genève, and chamfering are common techniques for enhancing the attractiveness of the visible movement. Contemporary skeleton watches often use modern materials such as titanium, ceramic, and even sapphire casings to highlight their futuristic appeal.

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Challenges in Skeletonisation

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Skeletonising timepieces is a complex and sensitive task. Watchmakers face numerous obstacles to striking an ideal balance between aesthetics, practicality, and longevity. Removing a material from the movement can reduce its strength, necessitating inventive engineering to ensure reliability. With so much visual intricacy, making the watch readable can also be difficult. 

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Skeletonised movements are often designed to be thinner, which can impair performance, if not carefully engineered. These parts can be more sensitive, necessitating novel engineering solutions to ensure shock resistance. Assembling a skeletonised movement requires handling thin and delicate components, which raises the risk of damage during production. It might be difficult to combine modern technologies such as Computerised Numerical Control (CNC) machining and laser cutting with the artistry of traditional watchmaking.

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GMT India looks at five luxury watches to spotlight the delicate artistry of skeletonised dials.

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Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton

‍This 39 mm stainless steel timepiece has combined the brand's legacy with modern craftsmanship. This watch, named after the district Le Locle in Switzerland, where Tissot's factory was created, honours the brand's rich horological history. The case is 11.2 mm thick, with more curves on the sides and the bezel, and shorter and slimmer lugs. The references get the lugs and the crowns in the same material as the cases. The display of the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton has been simplified by removing the date.

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This model has an ivory-coloured, domed, and brushed skeleton dial, including gold-coloured hands and baton markers. Under the hood of each is SwatchGroup’s go-to movement, Calibre Powermatic 80. An evolution of the ETA calibre C07.631 architecture, this automatic movement offers a solid 80-hour power reserve and is equipped with an anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring.

Price: Rs. 86,000 (approx.)

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Oris ProPilot Year of the Snake

‍The ProPilot X Year of the Snake model has a 44 mm multi-piece brushed titanium case that is water-resistant to 100 metres and capped with a double-domed sapphire crystal. The timepiece has a fluted bezel and a large screw-in crown with safety guards at 3 o'clock. The ProPilot X Year of the Snake edition has a skeletonised dial with a chapter ring on the outer periphery as well as Super-LumiNova®-coated hands and hour markers.

The little seconds indication is located at 7:30 while a non-linear power reserve indicator at 3 o'clock is provided with a golden hand, shaped like a snake's tongue. This new ProPilot X uses the brand’s Calibre 115 movement that has been developed in-house. The hand-wound engine offers an impressive 10-day or 240-hour power reserve. 

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Price: Rs. 8,00,000 (approx.)

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TAG Heuer Dark Blue Skeleton Monaco in DLC Titanium

‍This 39 mm piece features a sandblasted grade 2 titanium casing, a black DLC-coated crown at 3 o'clock, and rectangular pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock. The distinctive and geometric skeleton dial is made up of a sandblasted dark blue base and an opaline blue module on top, which features a minute track and subdials. The watch features a black and blue opaline 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o'clock, a permanent second indicator with a rhodium-plated hand at 6 o'clock, a black and blue opaline 12-hour chronograph counter at 9 o'clock, and a light blue Super-LumiNova® date disc at 6 o'clock.

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Under the sapphire caseback is the in-house integrated automatic Calibre Heuer 02 (TH20-00), which boasts an 80-hour power reserve, and a column wheel and vertical clutch design. Turning the watch over reveals a sandblasted black DLC grade 2 titanium screwed sapphire caseback, a blackened rotor, and yellow accents on the column wheel.

Price: Rs. 10,00,000 (approx.)

Jacob & Co. Epic X Chrono 44 Edition Manchester City Blue Ceramic

‍This 44 mm 18 ct rose gold case watch features a blue ceramic-and-rose gold bezel with a rubber crown as well as two chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock. This sequence can be activated at any time. The thick blue sapphire dial features a skeleton watch, a 60-minute blue aluminium inner ring, a small-second indicator at 9 o'clock, and a minute counter at 3 o'clock, bearing the Manchester City light blue symbol.

Powering the watch is Caliber JCAA05, a self-winding chronograph with two registers, a configuration called bi-compax, a horizontal clutch, and a column wheel offering a 48-hour power reserve.

Price: Rs. 50,00,000 (approx.)

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Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077

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The 44 mm 18 ct white gold watch features a fluted caseband. The crown is classically placed at 3 o'clock. The screw-locked chronograph pushers are located at 4 and 8 o'clock. The movement's base, which is totally visible through the front sapphire crystal, retains the collection's unique matte grey finish as well as the appealing architectural and historically significant stepped finger bridges.

At 12 o'clock, the hours and minutes are indicated by two rhodium-plated Breguet open-tipped hands on a Breguet Blue skeleton dial, sporting a Clous de Paris pattern and white Roman numerals. The watch is powered by a manually wound Calibre 580DR. This single-barrel movement features two independent Breguet balance wheels, one in Grade 5 titanium and the other in cupro-beryllium. The first gear train is controlled by a balancing wheel, vibrating at a mild frequency of 3Hz, visible on the right side of the clock; the movement delivers a 55-hour power reserve.

Price: 90,00,000 (approx.)‍