Patek Philippe at Watches and Wonders 2025: 15 New Creations, Boundless Innovation

As one of the most anticipated launches at the prestigious Geneva watch fair, Patek Philippe’s new lineup showcases a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, reaffirming the brand’s commitment to excellence. With fresh interpretations of iconic models and groundbreaking complications, the collection not only pays homage to the Maison’s storied legacy but also pushes the boundaries of contemporary watchmaking. From meticulously hand-finished movements to exquisite dial artistry, each timepiece reflects the unparalleled expertise that has made Patek Philippe a benchmark of haute horlogerie. Patek Philippe, renowned for its timeless craftsmanship and horological innovation, has once again captivated enthusiasts and collectors with its latest collection at the ongoing Watches and Wonders 2025. GMT India takes a closer look at the masterpieces.

Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001

This 135 x 86 mm clock retains the overall shape of the “Packard” clock (albeit on a larger scale). Under the bonnet, in the upper left-hand corner, a casing fitted with a patented ejection system houses the winding and setting key. On the upper right-hand corner are the two openings enabling the key to access the winding and setting squares. Another opening, located at six o’clock beneath the bezel, provides access to the square that stops the seconds, enabling the time to be set to the nearest second. Once these operations have been completed, the clock can function without being rewound for a full month. 

Below the dial, the designers have incorporated five push-piece correctors. These pushers adorned with a letter or a symbol enable the user to adjust the perpetual calendar indications by exerting simple pressure with a finger: from left to right, the week (Week), the day (Day), the moon phase (crescent moon), the month, (Month) and the date (Calendar). The corrector pushers required that the movement integrate a complex system of intermediate wheels to ensure their exact alignment along the same arc. 

For the exterior features of the new desk clock, Patek Philippe drew inspiration from the lavish ornaments on the historic model of 1923, interpreting these in a refined, timeless style. Panels of green grand feu flinqué enamel over a swirling guilloché pattern adorn a cabinet crafted in 925 silver. Similarly to the watch dials, these panels were counter-enamelled. In terms of the functions, Patek Philippe has introduced two new features compared with the “Packard” clock.

The first consists of a “jumping seconds” hand (or an “independent seconds” hand) making one jump per second in the manner of old regulators. The second is a weekly calendar ― a useful function whereby the read-out is made easier by the rotating aperture displaying the number of the current week on a scale on the periphery of the dial. For the other indications, the manufacturer has retained the hour and minutes display in a small eccentric subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock, the moon-phase aperture at 6 o’clock, and the day and month displays in apertures at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock.

The date displayed by a hand ― a hand from the centre on the “Packard” ― has been moved to the subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock, and two small apertures at 7.30 and 4.30, highlighting the day/night indication and the leap-year cycle respectively. Transfer-printed in black, these various indications stand out with superb legibility on the silvery opaline dial. Powering the clock is a manually wound mechanical movement, Caliber 86-135 PEND S IRM Q SE, with a 31-day power reserve. 

Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001

This 42 mm white gold timepiece comes with pierced lugs. The 18 ct white gold dial has an ice-blue sunburst effect. There are 11 baton-style applied hour markers, triple-faceted dauphine-style hour and minute hands, and a subsidiary seconds hand in 18 ct white gold with blue metallisations. The chronograph hand and the split-seconds hand are in steel, and painted white. One can spot a 60-minute subdial at 3 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock, baton-style hands in 18 ct white gold, and a railway-track minute scale transfer-printed in white on the periphery of the blue opaline dial. Also, there are inlaid frames in 18 ct white gold with blue metallisation ― diamond polished ― for the date window at 12 o’clock, day at 10:30, and month at 1:30 apertures.

The monopusher chronograph with the column wheel and horizontal clutch, distinguished by its particularly slender construction, displays 60-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively. Its single pusher at 2 o’clock enables the user to actuate the start, stop, and re-set functions successively (a 3-step chronograph). The split-seconds hand, equipped with its own column wheel, is operated by the pusher at 4 o’clock. A single pressure stops the split-seconds hand; a second pressure re-starts it, whereupon it catches up with the running sweep hand. This process of stopping and re-starting the split seconds hand may be repeated at will while the chronograph sweep-seconds hand is in action. At the end of the timing event, the wearer activates the pusher at 2 o’clock to stop the two hands conjointly and reset them to zero.   

The minute repeater chiming on two classic gongs offers the legendary sound quality of the Patek Philippe chiming watches ― grand complications that are the fruits of an expertise reserved for the most elite of master watchmakers. This highly sophisticated system of tiny racks, snails, hammers, and gongs, actuated by the slide-piece set into a caseband at 9 o’clock, strikes, on demand, the hours on the low-pitch gong, the quarters by alternating strokes (high and low pitch), and the minutes elapsed since the last quarter on the high-pitch gong. 

Powering the watch is a self-winding mechanical movement, Caliber R CHR 27 PS QI, with a maximum power reserve of 48 hours. Turning the watch showcases the skeleton caseback with a mini-rotor in platinum. The watch is finished on an alligator leather strap with large square scales in shiny navy blue, sporting a patented triple-blade fold-over clasp in 18 ct white gold.

Calatrava 8 Days Ref. 5328G-001 

This 32 mm 18 ct white gold watch has lugs attached to the back. The dial has a brass texture with a blue with black gradient at the rim. There are applied Arabic numerals in 18 ct white gold with white luminescent coating, syringe-style hour and minute hands in 18 ct white gold with white luminescent coating, a baton-style date hand in brass, and a baton-style subsidiary seconds hand in white gold, painted white. 

In addition to its special functions and increased autonomy, the new Calatrava 8 Days Reference 5328G 001 has a power reserve indication, transfer-printed along an arc on a subdial at 12 o’clock, while the day aperture, the date hand, and the subsidiary seconds dial form a group at 6 o’clock. This arrangement is along a vertical axis.

Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Ref. 6159G-001

The timepiece maker has now reinterpreted this grand complication in white gold, with a sapphire crystal dial featuring grey metallisation and revealing the watch's mechanical heart. The bezel is adorned with the famous Clous de Paris or hobnail guilloché motif. Beating within this Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Reference 6159G-001 is the caliber 26-330 S QR self-winding movement, which may be admired through a sapphire crystal caseback. Patek Philippe reinterprets the perpetual calendar with a retrograde date hand in a new white gold version, exuding an original, contemporary style. 

The retrograde date as well as the aperture frames of the day (at 9 o'clock), leap-year cycle (at 12 o'clock), month (at 3 o'clock), and moon phases (at 6 o'clock) are underlined by a grey electroplated outline. The bezel and the caseback are enhanced by the famous hobnail pattern, one of the finest emblems of the Patek Philippe style.

Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370R-001

Another flagship model, the split-seconds chronograph (reference 5370) puts forth its first version in rose gold, harmonising with a dial in brown grand feu enamel, subsidiary dials, and a tachymeter scale in beige champlevé enamel. This decoration with its unalterable colours is hand-crafted on an 18 ct gold plate. 

Calibre CHR 29-535 PS combines its traditional architecture (manually wound, column wheel, toothed-wheel horizontal clutch) with seven patented innovations, including one for the reworked split-seconds mechanism. This new timepiece is worn on an alligator-leather strap in shiny dark chestnut brown, accompanied by a new patented three-prong fold-over clasp. 

Twenty~4

The Twenty~4 collection welcomes its very first complication: a perpetual calendar, one of Patek Philippe's most emblematic grand complications. The calendar indications appear in three subdials, complemented by a moonphase aperture with a date arc at 6 o'clock. Ref. 7340/1R-001 has a silver-toned dial distinguished by its double vertically and horizontally satin-brushed finish, reminiscent of shantung silk fabrics, while Ref. 7340/1R-010 has a sunburst olive green colour that is both subtle and modern. 

Beating at the heart of the entirely polished case is self-winding 240 Q calibre, an ultra-thin movement. The complete day-date-month calendar automatically takes into account the varying lengths of the months, including leap years.

Annual Calendar Ref. 4946R-001

This new non-gemset rose gold model with a 38 mm diameter can fit all wrists. There is a chestnut dial enhanced by a double vertically and horizontally satin-brushed finish, reminiscent of shantung silk fabrics. The chestnut calfskin strap with a denim pattern and contrasting cream stitching is fitted with a rose gold prong buckle. This timepiece displays the day, date, and month, requiring only one manual correction per year, at the end of February. Beating at the heart of this Annual Calendar Reference 4946R-001 is the calibre 2330 S QA LU, a self-winding movement.

Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524G-010

Patek Philippe has reinterpreted the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in white gold with an ivory lacquered dial and a khaki green composite material strap with a fabric motif. At the heart of this travel watch beats the 26-330 S C FUS calibre, a self-winding movement distinguished by its easy-to-use Travel Time display system.

The date indicated by hand at 6 o'clock automatically adjusts to the local time, whether forward or backward. The two time-zone pushers feature a patented screw-down safety system preventing any risk of accidentally putting the local-time function out of order.

Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001 

The Calatrava collection welcomes a new model in platinum with an opaline rose-gilt dial. The polished, understated case features a smooth, bevelled bezel, satin-finished flanks, and slender lugs offering a smooth transition to the shiny chocolate brown alligator leather strap. The pace of time is set by manually wound 30-255 PS calibre with a 65-hour power reserve and a stop-seconds function, enabling time to be set to the exact second. 

Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G-001, Ref. 7128/1R-001 

The Cubitus, an innovative expression of the “elegant sporty” style, was launched in October 2024. It offers a new medium size of 40 mm adapting to every wrist. It’s now available in two versions: Cubitus Reference 7128/1G-001 in white gold with a blue-grey sunburst dial and Cubitus Reference 7128/1R-001 in rose gold with a brown sunburst dial.

The case is square with rounded corners, and is emphasised by a play of vertical satin-brushed and polished finishes. Self-winding 26-330 S C calibre is equipped with a stop-seconds function enabling time-setting to the exact second. The white gold bracelet features a lockable adjustment system and a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. 

Ladies’ Nautilus Ref. 7010G-013, Ref. 7010/1G-013

Patek Philippe plays with colour in a new version of the Ladies’ Nautilus, fortified with a quartz movement and a 32 mm-diameter white gold case. Adorned with a wave pattern, typical of the Ladies’ Nautilus collection, the dial sports an azure blue lacquered colour.

This original, refined hue is echoed on the ultra-resistant composite material strap with its fabric pattern, secured by a Nautilus white gold fold-over clasp. The octagonal bezel is illuminated by 46 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.8 ct). Each white gold bracelet features a lockable adjustment system and a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. Both references have a date window at 3 o'clock, and Arabic hour markers for 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock.

Nautilus Haute Joaillerie Ref. 5811/1460G-001

This new model in white gold has a rounded octagonal bezel with a row of baguette-cut diamonds, while the dial is adorned with rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. The bracelet's central links are set with baguette-cut diamonds, while the main links feature regular rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. In total, this piece is set with 1,285 brilliant-cut diamonds (6.43 ct) and 195 baguette-cut diamonds (13.27 ct). he Haute Joaillerie version of this icon is powered by a self-winding 26-330 S calibre with a stop-seconds function enabling time-setting to the exact second.