GMT India’s Favourite Picks: The Hottest Watches of 2024

A week into 2025 and we’re already excited about all the new watches that we’ll be marvelling at this year. Watches and Wonders is coming up soon in April, and brands are certain to pull out all stops when they unveil their novelties at the annual gala. Before we train our spotlight on 2025’s hottest watches, we wanted to take a moment to look back at all our favourite picks from 2024. The entire list of GMT India’s favourite timepieces from 2024 is rather long, but if we have to whittle it down, the following seven models are those that thrilled us the most.

‍

Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind 

A peculiar Cartier dress watch with its red carnelian stone dial, the immediately-recognisable square silhouette of the Santos-Dumont, and a unique mechanism that tells time backwards, this turned heads when it was unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2024. Cartier has built for itself a formidable reputation of honouring its storied legacy while confidently pushing boundaries in modern ways, and this model acts as the perfect example. When the wearer reads the Roman numerals on the dial clockwise, it goes from 12 at the top, to 11, then 10, and so on.

What stood out the most: The unconventional way of telling time, paired with a cool, refined elegance that has now come to be synonymous with Cartier.

‍

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

The worthy winner of the prestigious Aiguille d’Or at the 2024 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, this is IWC’s first secular perpetual calendar that impresses on various fronts. The watch doesn’t just offer a hyper-accurate secular perpetual calendar — one of the world’s rarest complications that takes into account even the most complex oddities of the Gregorian calendar, including centurial years — it also features the extremely precise Double Moon™ phase display, which will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after a world-record-breaking total of 45,361,055 years.

What stood out the most: The multiple complications that reflect IWC’s commitment to technical excellence and precision in watchmaking.

‍

H. Moser & Cie. x Studio Underdog

H. Moser & Cie. is no stranger to fun, minimalistic pieces that perfectly capture the zeitgeist of contemporary horology where playfulness and rebellion are fast becoming the mainstay. These two pieces — the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit and the Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit — created in collaboration with Studio Underd0g perfectly encapsulate that spirit. Sporting bold, vibrant colours, both timepieces stand out on their own while also complementing each other. Both models come with a touch of green, symbolising the seed of passion that flourishes within all watch enthusiasts.

What stood out the most: The bold colourways paired with H. Moser & Cie.’s signature minimalist approach to presenting watchmaking complications.

‍

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna

A fantastic watch (with tourbillon and chronograph functions) that also doubles up as a fitting tribute to one of Formula One’s greatest drivers of all time, this was released to coincide with the launch of the new Netflix series Senna that focuses on the life of the late Ayrton Senna. From the carbon bezel inscribed with ‘Senna’ to the image of Senna with his helmet on the caseback, the subtle detailing on the watch pays a fitting tribute to his legacy. The sharp, dynamic lugs and the skeletonised dial further enhance the aesthetic appeal.

What stood out the most: The meticulous attention to detail that serves as a testament to TAG Heuer’s watchmaking excellence and commitment to honouring Ayrton Senna’s prolific legacy.

‍

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini

When the petite 23 mm Royal Oak Mini models were launched last year, they cemented the impact of the small watches trend on the industry. Available in 18 ct yellow, white or pink gold, the dainty little Audemars Piguet timepieces have caused quite the stir since. Though marketed first as women’s watches, the sizing makes them ideal for men too ― men like Hollywood stars Paul Mescal and Timothée Chalamet who harbour no qualms about rocking tiny watches both on and off screen. A contemporary interpretation of the 20 mm Royal Oaks from 1997, these are perfect markers of modern horology. 

What stood out the most: The contemporary diminutive sizing that still honours the iconic contours of the Royal Oak.

‍

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Over the years, the Rolex Daytona has created for itself a special place in horology as one of the most coveted watches of all time. This new bejewelled Daytona that was unveiled last year takes that legacy further. Cased in 18 ct white gold, this model sports a white and black mother-of-pearl dial graced with eight diamonds and three Chromalight hour markers. The shine of the brightly contrasted colours is the result of a particularly stringent material selection process followed by Rolex. The 36 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel add an extra gleam. 

What stood out the most: The shine of the contrasting hues of the dial complemented by the dazzle of the diamonds.

‍

Favre Leuba Sea Sky Chronograph

The relaunch of Favre Leuba last year included the unveiling of a host of new stunning models, most notably the Sea Sky Chronograph. Paying homage to the original Sea Sky from the 1970s that effortlessly combined the functionality of a diver’s watch with a chronograph, this new iteration features classic vintage aesthetics and retro-inspired detailing. The clean tri-compax chronograph configuration stands out against the black of the dial, and the rugged round case in stainless steel exudes a bold, adventurous spirit, much like the very first Sea Sky.

What stood out the most: The vintage detailing and the rugged exteriors that bring to mind the original Sea Sky from the 1970s.

‍