Chanel's 2025 Novelties: A Bold Palette and Iconic Reinterpretations at Watches and Wonders

Chanel's presence at the 2025 edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva showcased a dynamic evolution of their iconic designs, revealing a captivating interplay of colour, texture, and technical mastery. From the revolutionary matte blue of the J12 BLEU to the couture-inspired Première Galon and the vibrant Blush Watch Capsule Collection, Chanel's novelties underscored their commitment to both aesthetic innovation and horological excellence.

The J12 BLEU: A New Hue for an Icon

Marking a significant milestone in the J12's 25-year legacy, Chanel unveiled the J12 BLEU, a striking rendition of their iconic watch in a deep, matte blue ceramic. This exclusive colour, the result of five years of meticulous research at the Chanel Watch Manufacture, represents a bold departure while maintaining the J12's inherent elegance. The J12 BLEU presents distinct variations, each showcasing the brand's mastery of ceramic production.

The 33 mm limited edition, powered by the Calibre 12.2, features a case set with 12 diamond indicators. This movement, visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, boasts a circular oscillating mass, a signature Chanel design element. Certified by the COSC as a chronometer, the Calibre 12.2 offers a 50-hour power reserve, demonstrating its precision and reliability. 

Another 33 mm variation, also a limited edition, highlights baguette-cut sapphires as indices, blending the vibrant blue of the sapphires with the matte blue ceramic. The Calibre 12.2 movement is coated in black.

The 38 mm variant, equipped with the Calibre 12.1, presents a blackened bezel with a baguette motif and glossy varnished indicators. This self-winding movement, also COSC-certified, delivers a 70-hour power reserve and is produced by Kenissi, ensuring exceptional performance. A high-jewellery version of the J12 BLEU 38 mm is presented, featuring a black coated steel fixed bezel set with 46 baguette-cut blue sapphires and a blue dial with 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires.

Première Galon: Couture Elegance on the Wrist

The Première Galon reimagines the Première collection, drawing inspiration from the braided trims of Chanel's haute couture. This new iteration features a bangle bracelet crafted from a twisted braid, offering a unique and elegant way to wear the timepiece. The 18-carat yellow gold bracelet complements the black lacquered dial, which is devoid of indicators, emphasising the watch's minimalist design. Gabrielle Chanel's use of braided trims to highlight and structure her suits is translated into this exquisite timepiece, reflecting the brand's deep connection to couture.

This watch is powered by a high-precision quartz movement, with functions for hours and minutes, and boasts water resistance of up to 30 metres. Available in sizes XS, S, M, and L, with dimensions of 19.7 x 15.2 x 7.5 mm, this timepiece combines both style and functionality. 

18ct Yellow Gold with Brilliant-Cut Diamonds
In another variation, the Première Galon offers an 18 ct yellow gold case, set with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.24 carat). The black lacquered dial maintains its minimalist elegance, complemented by an 18 ct yellow gold crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond. The rigid 18 ct yellow gold braid motif bracelet is adorned with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.76 carat), bringing a refined touch of sparkle.

This piece also features a high-precision quartz movement, with functions for hours and minutes, and water resistance of up to 30 metres. It is available in sizes XS, S, M, and L, and has the same dimensions of 19.7 x 15.2 x 7.5 mm as the model above. 

The Ultimate Luxury: 573 Brilliant-Cut Diamonds
For those seeking the ultimate in luxury, the Première Galon model boasts an 18 ct yellow gold case and a dial set with 108 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.49 carat). The 18K yellow gold hands and non-screw-down crown are set with a brilliant-cut diamond (~0.04 carat).

The bangle and clasp are adorned with an astonishing 573 brilliant-cut diamonds (~4.90 carats), creating an opulent and eye-catching design. This high-precision quartz movement timepiece also features functions for hours and minutes, and water resistance of up to 30 metres. Available in sizes XS, S, M, and L, with dimensions of 19.7 x 15.2 x 7.5 mm, this version is the epitome of sophistication, with a total of 682 brilliant-cut diamonds (~5.43 carats).

Première Iconic Chain: Versatile Elegance

Further expanding the Première line, Chanel has introduced two new variations that highlight the versatility of the iconic chain bracelet. The Première Iconic Chain Double Row features a bracelet that wraps twice around the wrist, creating a sensual look. This variation is crafted with a steel case coated with 18 ct yellow gold (0.1 micron) and a black lacquered dial, adding a touch of modern elegance. 

The steel crown is also coated with 18 ct yellow gold (0.1 micron) and features an onyx cabochon, enhancing its refined appearance. The double row steel chain bracelet, interlaced with a black leather strap, is also coated with 18K yellow gold (0.1 micron), making it a striking and sophisticated accessory. The watch is powered by a high-precision quartz movement and functions with hours and minutes. It offers water resistance of up to 30 metres and comes in multiple sizes, namely S, M, L, and XL. With dimensions of 19.7 x 15.2 x 7.5 mm, this piece is designed to suit a variety of wrist sizes, offering both style and functionality. The Première Iconic Chain Necklace transforms the bracelet into a necklace, showcasing the graphic lines of the watch clasp as a pendant. These creations underscore Chanel's ability to seamlessly blend watchmaking with jewellery design.

Chanel Blush Watch Capsule Collection: A Palette of Beauty

The Chanel Blush Watch Capsule Collection pays homage to the brand's beauty heritage, drawing inspiration from the vibrant colour palettes of Chanel's Makeup Creative Studio. These timepieces showcase the creative power of colour and exceptional métiers d'art craftsmanship. The J12 Blush, a standout piece in this collection, features a camaieu effect of pink and red on the index and the bezel. This gradient effect, achieved through meticulous lacquering, creates a striking contrast with the deep black ceramic case.

The J12 Blush is equipped with the COSC-certified Calibre 12.1, a self-winding Manufacture movement, housed within a 38 mm case of black highly resistant ceramic and matte black-coated steel. The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the intricate workings of the movement, highlighting Chanel's commitment to both aesthetic and technical excellence. The blending of the black ceramic against the gradient of pink and red creates a watch that is both elegant and striking.

Chanel's 2025 novelties at Watches and Wonders demonstrate a continued dedication to innovation and artistry. By reinterpreting iconic designs and exploring new colour palettes, Chanel reinforces its position as a leader in the world of luxury watchmaking.

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