160 Years of Zenith: Two New Collections Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025 Honour the Past, Embrace the Future

Zenith, a name synonymous with horological excellence, has marked its 160th anniversary with a resounding statement at Watches and Wonders, unveiling two distinct yet complementary collections that celebrate both its rich heritage and its forward-thinking innovation. This year, the brand pays homage to its legendary past while simultaneously pushing the boundaries of contemporary watchmaking, captivating enthusiasts with the G.F.J. and a striking blue ceramic chronograph trilogy.

The G.F.J.: A Revival of Chronometric Mastery

At the heart of Zenith's anniversary celebration lies the G.F.J., a timepiece that resurrects the iconic Calibre 135, the most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. This collection, named after the brand's founder Georges Favre-Jacot, is a testament to Zenith's unwavering pursuit of precision and excellence.

Georges Favre-Jacot's vision, established in 1865, was to create “the perfect watch”, a quest that propelled Zenith to unparalleled heights in chronometry. The Calibre 135, designed by Ephrem Jobin, stands as a symbol of this ambition. Specifically developed for observatory trials, this movement secured an astounding 235 chronometry prizes, an absolute record in watchmaking history. The 135-O variant, in particular, achieved five consecutive first prizes at the Neuchâtel Observatory from 1950 to 1954, cementing its legendary status.

The G.F.J. represents a modern re-engineering of this historic movement, retaining its original dimensions and architecture while incorporating contemporary advancements. The new Calibre 135 boasts a 72-hour power reserve, a significant upgrade from the 40 hours of its predecessor, and features an optimised gear train for enhanced efficiency. Operating at 2.5 Hz, the movement includes a Breguet overcoil, a double arrow-shaped regulator, and a stop-second mechanism for precise time setting. Spring-mounted jewel settings protect the balance staff, and the movements are COSC-certified, ensuring accuracy within +/-2 seconds per day.

The aesthetic of the G.F.J. is equally remarkable. The 39 mm platinum case, with its stepped bezel and curved lugs, exudes vintage elegance with a modern touch. The Zenith signature blue dial features a “brick” guilloché outer ring, a lapis lazuli centre, and a mother-of-pearl subdial at 6 o’clock, creating a captivating depth and unique texture. The hands and hour markers are crafted from 18-ct white gold, adding a touch of sophistication. Meticulous craftsmanship is evident in the movement’s bridges, which feature a “brick” guilloché finish inspired by the Zenith Manufacture’s façade. The watch is presented on a blue calfskin strap.

Limited to 160 pieces, the G.F.J. is a fitting tribute to Zenith’s 160 years of watchmaking excellence. As Zenith CEO Benoît de Clerck puts it, this timepiece “reimagines this legendary movement, not simply as a nod to the past, but as a way to share a defining part of its heritage while offering a contemporary interpretation that resonates with today’s spirit.”

A Blue Ceramic Chronograph Triumph: Modernity in Zenith Blue

Complementing the G.F.J., Zenith unveils a striking blue ceramic chronograph trilogy, showcasing its iconic chronographs in a unique and vibrant hue. This collection, featuring the CHRONOMASTER Sport, DEFY Skyline Chronograph, and PILOT Big Date Flyback, celebrates Zenith's legacy and innovation in a contemporary context.

The brand's signature blue takes on a new form in this collection, crafted from a specially developed ceramic. Known for its durability and aesthetic appeal, this material highlights Zenith's technical expertise. The trilogy's release underscores Zenith's connection to the sky and its commitment to horological excellence.

The PILOT Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary Edition pays tribute to Zenith's aviation roots. Its 42.5 mm case, dial, and strap, all in blue ceramic, create a striking monochromatic look. This watch is powered by the El Primero 3652 calibre, which features a patented big date and flyback function.

The DEFY Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition blends contemporary design with Zenith's heritage. Its 42 mm case and bracelet, crafted from blue ceramic, are paired with a dial featuring a geometric motif. The El Primero 3600 calibre enables 1/10th of a second measurements.

The CHRONOMASTER Sport 160th Anniversary Edition showcases Zenith's expertise in high-frequency timekeeping. Its 41 mm case, in blue ceramic, features a lacquered dial with the brand’s signature tricolour counters. The El Primero 3600 calibre powers this watch, delivering 1/10th of a second chronograph readings.

Each of these limited-edition watches, with only 160 pieces per model, represents Zenith's rich history and innovative spirit. The use of blue ceramic across these chronographs highlights the brand's commitment to craftsmanship.

Zenith CEO Benoît de Clerck emphasises the significance of blue in the brand's identity, stating that this trilogy aims to give their signature colour "a new dimension". Available through Zenith boutiques and authorised retailers, this collection celebrates 160 years of horological excellence, solidifying Zenith's place at the heart of watchmaking.

At the 2025 Watches and Wonders, Zenith has delivered a powerful message: a harmonious blend that honours its past while embracing the future, thereby ensuring that its legacy continues to resonate with collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.

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